Men’s Fashion rule #2 – Fit

 

After identifying the fashion Style(s) you want to adopt, the next step is for you to start looking for the relevant clothes to buy. This part can take some time, at least it was the case for me, since as I kept trying clothes and doing online searches, I was not compromising on what I was looking for with what was available in the shops in town.

The two key things to keep in mind during this process are Fit and Size, and the two things are closely related: if you take an item one size too small, chances are you will promptly notice, as it will be uncomfortable; but on the other hand, if you take the item one size too big, this mistake can go unnoticed, and the fit will suffer as a result. Hence, it’s not only a matter of identifying the right fit, but also making sure you select the right size, otherwise all the good work done so far will go out of the window.

Trousers

Most guys buy trousers one size too big, and I was one of those guys until a few years ago. Fact is, even without a belt, your trousers should not go anywhere, otherwise the size is just too big for you. As of now I only buy skinny jeans, and the way I do it and I recommend you do it is the following: the side with the button and the side with the buttonhole need to not to be on top of each other in rest position; you apply a little force and you close the button; the trousers are not falling without using a belt; you sit down and the waist of your trousers is not applying any uncomfortable extra pressure on your abdomen; your friend down there is not squeezed like hell when you are sat down; if all the previous points are in check, then you are good to go.

If the side with the button goes on the top of the side with the buttonhole without the need for any extra little force from you, then your trousers will fall at least a little once buttoned and without using a belt, and this definitely means the size is too big for you. The belt is mainly just for appearance, or may give just that little extra firmness which doesn’t hurt, but the trousers should remain in the right place even without the belt.

Having said that, if you are exactly between two sizes, go for the bigger one, as comfort is essential as well as fit. This should be a rare exception though, considering that most brands increment trousers sizes in very little steps.

Then there is the trousers length to consider, and here the three possibilities are L30, L32 and L34 (inches). Guys in the range of average height go for L32, fairly tall guys for L34, and shorter guys for L30. They key is to make sure that the length of the trousers is not too short that leaves the ankle exposes, and not too long that it leaves creases at the bottom. If you bought trousers which are too long (by mistake or simply because the model was naturally long) you can always go to the tailor and have it fixed, while no such thing exists as fixing trousers which are too short. I’m 178cm tall (5”10) and I always go for L32.

Let’s look at the fit now.

Jeans

There are the possible fits you will encounter when looking for a pair of jeans:

● Leggings
● Skinny
● Slim
● Tapered
● Carrot
● Bootcut
● Straight

I only buy Skinny jeans at the moment, and I do that because I’m on the skinny side myself, hence the skinny jeans just make my legs look stronger and more defined. Let’s look at some images, and if you click on the Pinterest board, you will find some more relevant images in the Pinterest channel which I just created (this applies for most of the boards in this post).

Just to complicate things a little bit, two different models from the same “skinny” line of the very same brand will have a different fit based on the fabrics they are made of, and we will look at this aspect in the next post on Fabrics.

Guys with stronger legs are better served by either Slim or Carrot/Tapered jeans, since they just won’t fit in a pair of Skinny jeans. Or alternatively, if they did manage to fit in them, those Skinny jeans would compress their legs too much, and they would look like a pair of Leggings on them, and this is definitely not what we want. Here are some Slim jeans:

And now let’s look at these Leggings, which I strongly recommend you stay away from. The balance is to skewed in the feminine direction here, and you either just look clumsy in a pair of those Leggings, or you end up signalling a different sexual orientation.

I am perfectly ok with a pair of Skinny jeans which fully compresses the thigh between the hip and the knee, and then goes down to the ankle leaving just a little bit of headroom around the knee itself, the calf and the ankle (by the way, this is the opposite situation compared to the ideal gym tracksuit which we saw here). What I’m not ok with, is for the jeans to look like women’s leggings, clearly defining the knee, the calf and the ankle. Let’s look at this comparison.

The above looks are all fairly similar, with almost identical tops, and jeans of the same black colour. But the fit of the jeans differs between them though. In the picture on the right-hand side, the jeans (Leggings) are just too tight from the knee (included) down, and they look feminine as a result. Compare this with the picture on the left-hand side, where the jeans clearly define the leg without any unnecessary compression, especially from the knee down: this case is way much better, much more masculine and much “straighter.” The jeans in the middle are Slim, a bit more relaxed than the Skinny model from the knee down.

Chinos

Fairly similar situation to the jeans, with the only difference that more often than not the fit is not clearly indicated but implied. Most of the chinos I bought have the dimension of the circumference at the end of the leg (referred to as “ankle width” or “cuff”) written in the internal label, the one where all the other details like fabrics and cleaning instructions are reported. As such, I know for sure that all my chinos have cuff of either 17cm or 18cm, and the 17cm models look just better, it’s much more similar to the Skinny jeans in terms of fit. The 18cm is more on the Slim fit side from the knee down, with the exception of chinos in a more twisted and more “stretch” cotton, which have cuff of 18cm but fit similar to 17cm chinos made of normal gabardine cotton (this conversation is getting a bit technical, but it just shows that there are a lot to of things to keep under control if you want to do things right).

Suit trousers

When it comes to suits, my default fit for both trousers and jacket is Drop 7, it looks just great.

Linen trousers

I really dislike shorts, they just don’t look stylish enough for my liking, and so I got myself some linen trousers to cope with the scorching summer days. Linen trousers are just great, just make sure you go for real 100% linen models, without any polyester in them. Slim fit is the way to go here, and I don’t even think that tighter linen models even exist, as it they were too skinny, they would constrain your legs too much, defeat the original principle of keeping you fresh and free in your movements in a hot summer day.

Shorts

See above.

Tops

Let’s start with the size: if the arm of your shirt/jumper is too short, leaving the wrist fully exposed in rest position, then the size is too small. And, if when you go up one size the shirt/jumper loses its fit, then it’s just a matter of that particular model or brand not being what you are looking for. Your target is to find shirts and jumpers with the proper fit at the right size, and since they exist, no need whatsoever to compromise on that.

Ideally you want T-shirts and jumpers to tightly envelop your chest and shoulders, and then go down along your waist fitted but not too tight (“compressor” items are to be avoided both at the gym and especially for everyday fashion). Just to be clear, when I say “to tightly envelop your chest and shoulders”, what I mean is that it will be your well-developed chest and shoulders doing most of the work up there, hence you still go for 100% cotton (or 100% wool for winter jumpers), rather than stretch fabrics. You just need to make sure that the 100% cotton jumper/T-shirt has the right fit, “just” that.

Shirts will constrain your movements a bit, but that’s perfectly normal: if your shirt has the same flexibility of a T-shirt, then you have taken at least one size too big (exceptions are the shirts with a fair amount of polyamide in them, we will cover them in the next post on Fabrics).

The fits you will encounter when shopping for tops are:

● Skinny / Super Slim / Extra Slim
● Custom
● Taylor
● Regular / Classic

Let’s look at somespecific examples of right fit vs. wrong fit.

Jumpers

Here it is how a jumper should fit.

As you can see, it’s tight around chest and shoulders (thanks to the muscles doing their job up there) and then a little more relaxed around the waist and abdomen. Thicker jumpers like the grey one in the middle look even better, since there are no creases whatsoever around the waist and abdomen, but they are usually only wool winter models.

And now let’s look at a common mistake, namely going for a jumper either one size too big, or having the wrong fit. When you compare the images below with the images just above, the difference is striking: these looser models just don’t deliver as the ones above do in terms of image, and you risk falling into Nice Guy category with this looser fit.

And now for the diametrically opposite mistake, let’s look at compressor jumpers / compressor long sleeve T-shirts. My message is extremely clear here: unless you are a professional athlete dressing for a competition, just avoid them, since they are try-hard and uncalibrated fashion-wise.

Another mistake is going for jumpers which are too long, like the ones shown in the pictures below.

And on the opposite side, we have jumpers which are too short. The models shown below are really too short, and if you were to wear one of these models, as soon as you raised your arm, you would have the jumper raising up to the level of your navel. The main problem of such short jumpers is the elastic band, since the situation would improve already by just removing that band and substituting it with normal tissue like the rest of the jumper. Even by doing so they would be still a bit short, but better than with the elastic band.

Some jumpers and T-shirts come with a looser/longer fit for a very specific fashion choice, hence whether you go or not for these models depend on whether or not they fit your target fashion style.

Shirts

Here are some shirts of the right fit, both casual and more formal.

And here are problematic shirts instead, which are definitely too tight.

In fairness to the above shirts, the main part of the problem is the extra love of the men wearing them, since the very same shirts would deliver completely different results when worn by someone with a much lower body fat level. When used like in the pictures above, these Extra Slim shirts look just clumsy, they signal lack of style and fashion awareness, hence avoid them if you are still working on getting rid of some excess body fat.

Linen shirts have their own specific fit, which is usually looser than dress shirts and casual cotton shirts. I don’t have any linen shirt, since I don’t like this more relaxed fit (above my linen trousers I wear T-shirts at summer), but if you like this style, this looser fit is appropriate here.

Let’s cover a common mistake now: the shirts below are of the right fit (let’s ignore the collar buttons for now) but they are used in a style which I don’t recommend in the slightest. This is very much provider/Nice Guy style: it can still work in a more formal context when used in combination with a jacket, but don’t expect this style to deliver any sexy edge to your image, since it will subtract points on that aspect instead.

Parkas / Down Jackets

Here are some parkas and down jackets of the right fit (same principle applies to coats and dinner jackets).

And here are some whose fit is too relaxed and to be avoided.

A word of caution

At times, clothes manufacturers change the real fit of their reported fit, and you need to be careful with that. Let’s look at a real-life example.

Back in 2017, I bought two Custom fit 100% cotton polo shirts by Polo Ralph Lauren. I also tried the equivalent Slim fit model, but it was just too tight and too short for my liking. In the end I also bought one Slim fit model as well, since it was heavily discounted, but every time I wore it, I kept having the impression that it was too short, and too tight around chest and shoulders.

Fast forward two years, and this summer I was looking to buy some more polo shirts to go to work, and my initial obvious starting point was Polo Ralph Lauren again, Custom fit model, since it was much better than the Slim fit. I went to the shop, took a Custom fit 100% cotton polo shirt, tried it, and I went like:

Whoa!! What’s wrong with this polo shirt?!

It was fine at the shoulders, the size was the correct one, the same as in 2017, but it looked just like a tunic on me, and this was hardly what I wanted. I then scaled down to the Slim fit 100% cotton model, same size, and I went like:

But this one fits just like my previous Custom fit!!

Now, I don’t know whether it was because I bought the previous Custom fit polo shirts in a different Country, or because the manufacturer decided to change the real fit of its reported fit, but the fact still stands: the Custom fit 100% cotton 2017 model has the exact same fit of the Slim fit 100% cotton 2019 model! Last summer, in the end, I bought the stretch version with 3% of elastane in it, but the difference between this year’s 100% cotton model and stretch model is only noticeable when you wear them, otherwise the profile is the same. And having made that clarification, let’s look at this comparison between the Custom fit 100% cotton 2017 model vs the Slim fit stretch cotton 2019 model:

22-1.jpg
POLO Ralph Lauren: Custom fit 2017 = Slim fit 2019

Exactly the same profile, except at the bottom length, and three neck buttons vs two. This year’s Slim fit stretch model is much more comfortable than the 2017 Custom fit model, since the 3% elastane makes all the difference, and it also fits better on me. But still, this year’s Slim fit model has nothing to do with 2017 Slim fit model, the closest model is the 2017 Custom fit.

Things like that shouldn’t happen, since the actual size and the real fit should remain consistent year on year, otherwise it’s just an additional headache when buying clothes based on previously tested and functional sizes and fits. But since I’ve noticed this happen a few times now, careful with that guys.

Conclusions

After selecting your target fashion Style(s), you need to make sure you buy clothes of the right Size and the right Fit, since going for clothes of the wrong size or the wrong fit can have (will have) detrimental effects on the looks you decided to use. We have seen the right fit for several items, and also some common mistakes to avoid. In the next post will cover the third and final key element for selecting clothes, the Fabrics of your clothes.

Related Posts:
• Maximising your Looks
• Men’s Fashion rule #1 – Style
• Men’s Fashion rule #3 – Fabrics
• Glasses and Sunglasses: common mistakes

The Essentials:
• Fundamentals
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